February 2004

The Shape of Things

Finding the best fit for your figure

Maybe you’re one of those girls who has always dreamed of floating down the aisle in a cloud of puffy white, lace-bedecked gown dripping with beaded embroidery and speckled with diamonds. Or possibly you are of another ilk, a bride-to-be who would get hitched in a favorite pair of blue jeans. Either way, on your wedding day you should feel like the most beautiful girl in the room.

Due to the lack of 5’10”, 110-pound brides these days, we decided to bring to light some ways brides might enhance their fabulous features and de-emphasize the less than fabulous ones. When picking out your gown, you will take into account many factors including your face shape, hair and neck, height and body type.

Top-Heavy

Avoid plunging and sweetheart necklines. They bring attention directly to the chest.

Be wary of high necklines; a wide swath of solid white across a large chest will bring the eye directly down and away from your face.

A square line across the bust works well; it serves to trim down excessive cleavage.

Sleeves with vertical lines attached to the bodice are helpful in guiding the eye upward to your face.

Avoid the empire waist.

To make the best use of your ample bosom, a formfitting gown can be wonderfully dramatic as long as the skirt has a slight flare at the bottom. This combination will balance out the fitted top portion.

Off-the-shoulder dresses also work well. The lines around your shoulders and neck will draw the eye upward and out. Just steer clear of a dramatic, plunging neckline.

Petite

An empire waist will make your legs look longer. When your legs look longer, you look longer.

Find a dress that has some vertical lines in it, whether in the embroidery or in substantial gathers.

Don’t be afraid to wear platform heels. They will add height and won’t show beneath a long gown.

A higher neckline will elongate your body and lead eyes upward to your face. A low neckline will make your figure appear stocky.

Keep it simple. If you want a full skirt, go with an A-line, which provides fullness but keeps the line vertical. A ballooning gown can easy swallow a smaller body. Use less material so the focus is on you and not your dress.

Bottom-Heavy

Avoid gathers at the waist, which will accentuate the hips.

A basque waistline is higher on the sides and dips in the front. It can be complimentary if the waist is raised an inch or two; this keeps the emphasis on the upper body.

Keep the top half of the dress very formfitting. Since you possess a small upper body, make the most of it.

A dress with a detailed top section (i.e., beading, lace, extra cloth) keeps the focus on the upper body and away from the wider, lower area.

A slightly higher waistline often works well; and an empire waist can smooth the line between upper and lower body.

An A-line dress is almost always the best bet. It keeps the silhouette lines smooth from the bust to the floor.

Tina Morrison and Joyce Sabol of Tiffany’s and Ellen Evans and Wendy Miller of Williamsburg Bridal and Formal provided suggestions for this article.